Schiaparelli: Where Fashion Meets Surrealism at the V&A

Naked mermaids, silk carrots, gilded elephant trunks, and drums – these are just a glimpse of the surreal buttons in the V&A’s spring show. Exploring the whimsical world of Elsa Schiaparelli, the event encapsulates the essence of surrealism in fashion, showcasing the extraordinary and the unexpected.

The Spirit of Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli was a pioneer who infused wit into her designs, crafting clothes that served as visual commentary. In this exhibit, a shoe transforms into a hat, bones protrude from a dress, and telephone dials are morphed into compact mirrors. Each gallery feels like walking through a 1930s Paris cocktail party, mingling with icons like Salvador Dalí and Jean Cocteau, where every piece sparks intrigue and conversation.

Redefining Fashion Artistry

Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli’s contemporary, infamously dismissed her as “that Italian artist who makes clothes.” However, this exhibition reinterprets the label as a genuine compliment. Schiaparelli was not merely a fashion designer; she was an artist in her own right. This is evident in collaborations with Dalí, notably featuring his lobster telephone alongside her iconic lobster dress, previously worn by Wallis Simpson.

A Journey Through Time and Art

Among Schiaparelli’s notable pieces is the skeleton dress of 1938, created alongside Dalí, featuring eerily padded ribs. A letter from Dalí highlights their collaboration, revealing how he admired her visionary ideas. The exhibit also includes a Picasso painting of Nusch Éluard in a Schiaparelli outfit, exemplifying the blend of fashion and fine art as Schiaparelli garnered attention and admiration across the artistic spectrum.

Early Influences and Breakthroughs

Birthed into a distinguished family in Rome in 1890, Schiaparelli’s unique perspective emerged early on. In her memoir, she recounted an improbable childhood secret: planting flower seeds in her mouth, nose, and ears as a misguided attempt to enhance her beauty. Eventually, she moved to London and Paris, where her career began flourishing with trompe l’oeil sweaters that showcased her innovative spirit.

The Shocking Pink Icon

Schiaparelli, often simply “Schiap,” was renowned for her daring aesthetics and her favorite color, shocking pink. Her bold choices extended to displaying a taxidermied pink polar bear in her shop window. Even in death in 1973, she left a legacy draped in pink hues, illustrating her enduring impact on fashion as a provocateur.

Modern Revivals and Cultural Impact

The exhibition features modern interpretations by Daniel Roseberry, who has revitalized the Schiaparelli brand since 2019. The synergy of humor and eroticism resonates in contemporary pieces, effectively blending the legacy of surrealism with modern aesthetics. Notable highlights include the striking golden breastplate that Bella Hadid famously wore at the 2021 Cannes red carpet.

Ultimately, the V&A exhibition invites viewers to appreciate the intersection of fashion and art. Those who embrace the unconventional will find themselves engrossed in thrilling discussions that question the boundaries of creativity. Fashion aficionados and art lovers alike are welcomed to experience the vibrant world of Schiaparelli.

Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art is on display at the V&A South Kensington, London, from 28 March to 8 November 2026.