Inside Erdem Moralioğlu’s Creative Process: A Look at His Fall 2026 Collection
Getting to Know Erdem Moralioğlu
Erdem Moralioğlu, the acclaimed designer, has been making waves in the fashion world for 20 years. Nestled in his East London office, he finds inspiration among towering stacks of books—spanning subjects from botanical catalogs to royal history. “People often ask if I would prefer a personal chef,” he shares with a grin, “but I would choose a librarian instead.” His personal team of three librarians provides him with the research needed to fuel his creativity, emphasizing the link between literature and fashion in his work.
Honoring Two Decades of Design
This season highlights Moralioğlu’s 20th anniversary with his brand, showcasing a collection titled “The Imaginary Conversation.” This latest work incorporates influences from the 1990s UK rave scene, hidden LGBTQ figures from Victorian England, and renowned British artists of the 19th and 20th centuries. Such eclectic references serve as a testament to the depth of his vision.
A Museum Setting: The Tate Britain Show
The stunning collection was displayed at the Tate Britain museum, where iconic artworks from the likes of William Turner and David Hockney were on full display, providing a fitting backdrop for the runway. “I love working in museum spaces,” Erdem expresses, drawing inspiration not just from exhibits but from the literature that shapes his creative voice.
Layered Inspirations and Historical Contexts
Moralioğlu’s designs often mimic the intricate nature of historical architecture, layering influences much like the peeling wallpaper of a grand estate. This season’s garments meld floral needlepoint with bejeweled denim, creating a rich tapestry of visual and emotional experiences. His models range from fresh-faced college students to iconic figures, creating a beautiful juxtaposition of past and present.
The Designer’s Backstory
Born in Montreal to a Turkish father and an English mother, Erdem’s path to fashion was influenced by diverse cultural perspectives. His experiences, from studying in Toronto to graduating at the Royal College of Art in London, have deeply impacted his design aesthetic. With early inspirations drawn from his twin sister, he reveals a lifelong fascination with women’s fashion, stating, “I’ve always been drawn to women in design.”
Conversations Around Fashion’s Responsibilities
Moralioğlu’s work coincides with crucial dialogues around the representation of women in the fashion industry and the historical implications of design. “These discussions are invaluable,” he asserts. By examining the intersections of colonialism and fashion, he attempts to navigate complex emotions and ideas through art, demonstrating a commitment to addressing modern ethical considerations.
What Lies Ahead for Erdem
As he reflects on two decades of creating unforgettable designs for stars like Keira Knightley and Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Erdem remains dedicated to personal growth and innovation. “I’m fiercely competitive with myself,” he admits, sharing insights into his relentless pursuit of excellence. After the show, where he will bask in moments of applause from notable figures, he’ll return to his beloved books for more inspiration.
