Zane Li: A Rising Star in American Menswear

A recent addition to the CFDA calendar, Zane Li has emerged as an exciting new designer. His spring runway debut showcased his potential to join a new wave of American fashion innovators, alongside names like Henry Zankov and Colleen Allen, all contributing to a transformative era in the industry.

A Global Vision

Originally from China and now based in Chinatown, New York, Zane Li is also a semifinalist for the 2026 LVMH Prize. Despite his flourishing talent, Li has decided to present his menswear collections in Paris. He expressed that the limited number of buyers in New York constrains the growth of his budding brand, stating simply, “I cannot sell clothes here.”

The Creative Journey

Li’s dynamic lifestyle—frequently traveling, with regular stops back home in Chongqing—fuels his creativity. He remarked, “I’m constantly in transportation and, especially in cars, I’m just sitting there with this feeling of urban isolation.” This unique perspective influences his design aesthetic and approach.

Inspirations from Cinema

A key source of inspiration for Li is Scarlett Johansson’s character in the sci-fi horror film “Under the Skin.” The story centers around an alien disguised as a human woman who seduces and devours men. Li finds allure in the character’s concealment, explaining, “She’s hiding something, and I think that’s what I’m always attracted to.”

Innovative Designs

The collection opened with a striking black track jacket, slightly unzipped to reveal a pops of red at the collar. This was followed by white and navy variations, skillfully paired with miniskirts featuring extended waistlines in vibrant color blocks like chartreuse and teal. Each look was completed with custom Nike Air-Force sneakers, showcasing versatility that could appeal to a global market.

Breaking Conventions

Li’s designs seamlessly blend tradition and instinct. Faux fur lapels adorned Mod-inspired jackets, while tabard tops featured rectangular panels, capturing the structural elegance reminiscent of a nun’s habit—yet reimagined in a bold, fashionable manner.

Masters of 3D Pattern-Making

One of Zane Li’s defining strengths is his unique approach to pattern-making, transitioning from 2D sketches to 3D garments. His dress-cape hybrids, composed of four squares sewn together with arm slits, initially appeared complex. However, in motion, these creations revealed a beautiful cohesion, surpassing their individual segments.

Fashion with Real-World Relevance

What sets Li’s work apart is that, despite its initially “alien” appearance, it resonates deeply in real-world contexts. His collection strips clothing down to basic geometries, then reconstructs them into captivating silhouettes intended for urban lifestyles. As he eloquently put it, “Reality, abstract, reality—it’s always that process.” This unique blend of futuristic aesthetics with practicality positions Zane Li as a formidable force in the fashion landscape.