Soshi Otsuki’s Debut at Pitti Uomo: A Fusion of Nostalgia and Modernity

Soshi Otsuki’s highly anticipated fall show at Pitti Uomo marked an impressive entry for the talented designer on the European stage. His inaugural runway collection captivated attendees and solidified his reputation following a stellar win at the prestigious 2025 LVMH Prize for Young Designers, where he triumphed over 2,300 competitors.

A Journey of Inspiration: From Japan to Italy

Otsuki’s design philosophy reflects a deep appreciation for the sartorial masterpieces of the late Giorgio Armani, a personal hero whose influence is evident in his languid tailoring style. Otsuki often draws inspiration from the influx of Italian fashion into Japan during the economic boom of the ’80s and ’90s, weaving a narrative that connects past and present.

Nostalgia Meets Modernity

Held in the architecturally stunning Santa Maria Novella Refectory, Otsuki’s fall collection resonated with a nostalgic ambiance while simultaneously pushing the envelope of contemporary fashion. The designer recreated the essence of ’80s corporate attire with modern twists, showcasing gray double-breasted suits featuring elongated blazers and multi-pleated trousers.

Redefining Power Dressing

Otsuki’s collection brilliantly juxtaposed traditional power-dressing with a fresh perspective. The beige and brown boxy fits appeared reminiscent of executive wear yet retained an innovative quality through exaggerated proportions. This clever reinterpretation celebrated fragility, infusing each outfit with unique personality and playful elements.

Innovative Tailoring Techniques

Highlighting his craftsmanship, Otsuki presented Oxford shirts cut on the bias, showcasing intentional draping when tucked into pants. These were sometimes styled with neck scarves, replacing the conventional tie, thereby adding an avant-garde touch. His tuxedo ensemble featuring curled wide lapels and a vintage cigarette holder ring further exemplified his chic, playful approach to tailoring.

Bridging Cultures: Japanese and Italian Tailoring

In an engaging preview with WWD, Otsuki shared his vision for the collection: “I am approaching the collection with the intention of re-exporting [the story of Italian suits in Japan] back in the opposite direction.” He expressed a desire to blend the precision of Japanese tailoring with the sensuality and improvisation inherent in Italian design.

A Standing Ovation

As Otsuki took his final bow, the audience erupted in applause, affirming his successful debut on the international runway. His collection not only captivated viewers but also highlighted the potential for storytelling through fashion, leaving a lasting impression within the global fashion community.