The Fall of Icarus: Giuseppe Di Morabito’s Latest Collection
A New Chapter in Fashion Storytelling
Giuseppe Di Morabito unveiled his second full-scale show, titled ‘The Fall of Icarus,’ as part of an ongoing narrative in his fashion journey. After the outward exploration in ‘Alone with the Stars,’ which addressed the future of AI and technology, this collection delved deep into themes of craft, childhood, memory, and myth. “We’re moving too fast,” Di Morabito remarked. “Sometimes, you need to fall to find your roots again.”
Setting the Stage for Rebirth
The runway illuminated by a sun-like circle, designed by artist Nick Verstand, featured a solitary body floating at its center, representing Icarus, the mythic figure known for flying too close to the sun. Unlike traditional interpretations, Di Morabito’s narrative focused on the fall as a point of rebirth rather than a tragic end.
Symbolism and Southern Italian Roots
The collection was filled with symbolic elements and dramatic intensity, deeply inspired by Southern Italian culture. Hand-sculpted porcelain bustiers adorned with rose bouquets—one of Di Morabito’s signature motifs—transcended mere fashion to become relics of love and permanence. “The rose has always been with my family,” he shared, emphasizing its significance.
Innovative Material Experimentation
Di Morabito’s material experimentation pushed the boundaries of textile design. Garments resembling stockings, crafted from women’s tights, were submerged in a chemical solution for two nights, resulting in crystallized surfaces reminiscent of coral. These unique pieces, developed in collaboration with chemist Sumeyya Donmez, showcased a vulnerability that juxtaposed more structured silhouettes, creating a visually dynamic collection.
Balancing Delicacy and Strength
Throughout ‘The Fall of Icarus,’ a harmonious tension between delicacy and strength was evident. Sculpted basques provided structure, while shoulders were softened. Silk draped wedge boots referenced classical antiquity, while baseball caps made entirely of turkey feathers highlighted innovative recycling within fashion. Opera-length gloves transformed into handbags, emphasizing utility without compromising style.
From Color Palette to Final Scene
The carefully curated color palette featured whites, blacks, nudes, and deep reds, enhancing the emotional depth of the collection. In the final scene, a model assisted the fallen Icarus in rising once more, illuminated by the sun sculpture above. “Icarus doesn’t die,” Di Morabito stressed. “He comes back. He burns and then flies again,” signifying resilience and rebirth.
Redefining Fashion Show Expectations
With ‘The Fall of Icarus,’ Di Morabito asserted a vision that transcends traditional seasonal fashion shows. He considers the runway a platform for operatic storytelling, contemplating a shift to an annual performance format. “It’s no longer about seasons, it’s about acts: building one story year after year,” he concluded, melding couture with Southern Italian craftsmanship and innovation.
