Cos Shines at New York Fashion Week with a Unique High Street Presentation

The highlight of day four at New York Fashion Week showcased all the traditional elements of a designer catwalk—an electrifying soundtrack and a front row filled with Hollywood stars. However, in a surprising twist, it was high street label Cos that took center stage instead of a luxury brand.

A Historic Venue for Modern Fashion

Founded in 2007 by the H&M group, the Swedish label Cos welcomed notable guests, including British actors Jodie Turner-Smith and Naomi Watts, along with singer Lauryn Hill, to a repurposed 1890s rope factory in Brooklyn. This unique setting, transformed into a warehouse space, featured a cracked concrete-effect catwalk surrounded by rows of sturdy steel benches, adding a raw, brutalist aesthetic to the presentation.

Brutalist Aesthetics and Sophisticated Designs

The clothing echoed the venue’s industrial charm, showcasing a muted color palette of metallic greys and charcoal. Oversized coats made from luxurious materials like cashmere and leather were elegantly cinched with skinny belts, while trousers gracefully pooled around sleek, glove-like leather shoes. The sharpness of the lapels on shirts and sweaters added to the collection’s sophisticated edge.

Reflecting a Shift in High Street Fashion

Cos’s presence amidst iconic American brands such as Ralph Lauren and Coach signals a broader shift within high street fashion, as labels endeavor to move beyond their fast fashion reputations. This is evident as Cos’s sister brand, H&M, prepares to commence London Fashion Week with a collection styled by renowned creative director Katie Grand.

The Challenge of High Street Loyalty

According to Joy Montgomery, shopping editor at British Vogue, high street brands are facing intensified pressure to secure customer loyalty amidst challenges such as the cost-of-living crisis and market stratification. The current battleground lies within the middle-ground of fashion—where both ultra-fast fashion and luxury brands dominate.

Luxe-Washing Trends in High Street Collaborations

The trend of “luxe-washing” is also apparent with high street labels collaborating with esteemed designers and celebrities. From Zac Posen’s designs for Gap to Clare Waight Keller at Uniqlo, these partnerships aspire to elevate brand statuses. Notably, Zara has featured collaborations with Kate Moss and Stefano Pilati, while H&M pioneered this trend by collaborating with Karl Lagerfeld in 2004.

Affordable Luxury on the Catwalk

Cos’s catwalk pieces, while designed to be more premium than the main collection, remain significantly more accessible than traditional luxury brands. The show highlighted pieces such as a leather funnel-neck top priced at £299 and a draped midi skirt for £229, alongside several higher-end coats. Interestingly, this season, Cos opted to eliminate the sub-brand label previously associated with its catwalk collection to avoid customer confusion.

Gwyneth Paltrow’s Rebranded Fashion Label

In a different area of New York Fashion Week, Gwyneth Paltrow launched her rebranded fashion label, now called Gwyn, during a presentation at a design gallery in Tribeca. Formerly known as the G Label, the rebranding aligns with Goop’s strategic shift to focus on core areas such as fashion, beauty, and food, following a recent workforce reduction.

The Essence of Gwyn’s Collection

The Gwyn collection reflects Paltrow’s style evolution, featuring cozy knits and tailored pieces influenced by her time in England. She emphasizes that her designs maintain a classic New York influence, blending preppy and contemporary elements. “My clothes still reflect that to this day,” she notes, encapsulating the enduring appeal of her fashion sensibility.