The Row Spring 2016: A Parisian Premiere
In celebration of the 10th anniversary of Vogue Runway, we revisit the notable spring 2016 shows, highlighting The Row’s remarkable debut in Paris.
The Olsens Take Paris
In September 2015, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen transported their renowned American brand, inspired by Britain’s Savile Row, to Paris for the very first time. Although some editors, including Vogue Runway’s Sarah Mower, had the opportunity to preview the collection ahead of the main event, the show itself took place at the stunning 17th-century Château de Courances, away from the bustling capital.
An Enchanted Setting
At the château, models glided along gravel paths framed by meticulously trimmed boxwood hedges, while guests settled into white-painted metal garden furniture, sipping red wine. The lush surroundings provided a picturesque backdrop for the collection.
Mood and Aesthetic
Under clear blue skies and bright sunshine, the Olsens set the tone with their collection. The first look, draped and ethereal, was reminiscent of an angel, while the final look, with its Grecian pleats and transparency, hinted at boldness, exposing a white bra and high-waisted panties beneath.
Daring Design Choices
This collection pushed boundaries, featuring midriff-baring styles such as a one-shouldered crochet top and open jackets layered over bra tops. Despite their reputation for understated luxury, the Olsen twins embraced daring elements, showcasing a refreshing take on contemporary fashion.
Color Palette and Textures
Reflecting a quintessential Olsen palette, the collection centered around shades of black, white, gray, navy, and khaki. To add vibrancy, there appeared a mustard yellow coatdress, a gold-beaded mesh top, and an eye-catching floral jacquard coat that resonated with the château’s opulent décor.
A Unique Presentation
This show was a singular event, as the Olsens wouldn’t regularly showcase in Paris until spring 2023. Nonetheless, it marked an ambitious venture for the sisters, illustrating that American luxury fashion can stand on its own merits. With its unique location, the show emphasized their intriguing position as both insiders and outsiders in the fashion world.
The Impact of The Row
The Rowification of fashion reflects the Olsen twins’ strategic use of soft power and subtlety. Their elevated taste and sophisticated designs challenge the notion of American luxury being contradictory. The spring 2016 collection remains a testament to their vision and influence within the industry.
