Francesco Risso Steps Down as Marni’s Creative Director
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A Decade of Creativity
Francesco Risso has announced his departure as the creative director of Marni, marking the end of a transformative 10-year period for the brand, as confirmed by owner OTB in a recent statement.
Risso’s Vision for Marni
Taking over from Marni’s founder, Consuelo Castiglioni, Risso infused the brand with an eclectic energy and a vibrant palette. He moved away from the understated, elegant silhouettes of the past, favoring a more artisanal aesthetic. His designs often appeared handcrafted, featuring a playful assembly of textures and patterns.
Bold Expressions Through Design
Under Risso’s direction, traditional motifs, particularly florals, were reimagined as bold statements. These designs frequently showcased techniques such as scribbling and hand-painting in vivid colors, resonating with audiences looking for individuality in luxury fashion.
Mixed Reception in the Fashion Community
While some long-time fans of Marni’s classic style found it difficult to embrace Risso’s unique take, the broader fashion community largely celebrated his creative vision. His ability to weave texture, innovation, and narrative into his designs distinguished him in the competitive Milan fashion scene.
The Evolution of Risso’s Aesthetic
As seasons progressed, Risso’s youthful, art-inspired approach gradually evolved into a more refined aesthetic. His later collections featured sculptural designs that elegantly balanced high fashion with his signature raw, artistic flair, appealing to a more diverse audience.
Challenges in Commercial Success
Despite the artistic successes, creating a sustainable business model around Risso’s unconventional style proved to be challenging. Although Marni gained traction in markets like the US, with popular items such as fuzzy cardigans and fur-covered mules, these successes were not sufficient to maintain the extensive network of nearly 100 stores.
Looking Ahead for Marni
During the luxury fashion boom in 2021, OTB observed a 29% increase in sales, highlighting moments of growth amid the challenges. However, Marni’s presence in OTB’s annual results has frequently been understated, leading to speculation about the brand’s future direction in the evolving fashion landscape.
