The Intersection of Fashion and Religion: A Modern Trend

All eyes have been on the Vatican recently, focusing not just on the smoke billowing from the chimney but also on the rich ceremonial attire donned during the papal election. While it might seem superficial to discuss vestments, the pomp and spectacle are intrinsic to such momentous events.

Fashion’s Spiritual Revival

The election of the new pope aligns with a notable trend in the fashion world, where religious motifs have been increasingly prevalent. From ornate crucifixes and sacred heart symbols to prayer beads, these themes have been surfacing in various collections long before the conclave. Designers like the New York brand Who Decides War feature hoodies and skirts adorned with stained-glass window motifs, while skatewear label Palace has unveiled T-shirts highlighting the Virgin Mary’s visage.

Celebrity Influence and Religious Symbolism

At the recent Met Gala, co-chair Colman Domingo made a statement in a striking cobalt cape with an elaborate collar. Meanwhile, designer Willy Chavarria showcased his commitment to the trend by accessorizing with a cross-embellished necklace. These symbols have become ubiquitous, adorning figures from Chappell Roan to White House press secretary Karoline Leavitt.

Runway Spirituality

Even recent fashion shows featured hints of incense and religious iconography. Chavarria’s presentation at the American Cathedral in Paris included models clutching rosary beads and wearing sweatshirts embellished with crosses. Similarly, British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker introduced prayer beads to her models at London Fashion Week, a theme echoed by GmbH in Berlin.

The Theatricality of Religion in Fashion

According to Iain R Webb, a writer and curator, it’s the “drama, pomp, and ceremony” of religion that fascinates designers. He cites examples like Cristóbal Balenciaga’s sweeping silhouettes resembling cardinal cassocks and Christian Lacroix’s iconic bejewelled crucifix jacket from 1999. However, this revival may go beyond mere aesthetics.

A Search for Meaning in Uncertain Times

In a world increasingly perceived as a “new dark age,” many are finding solace in spirituality. A 2023 survey found that 45% of 18 to 24-year-olds in the UK believe in God, a significant increase from just 22% in 2019. J’Nae Phillips, a trend forecaster, notes that contemporary religious-themed fashion often reflects a quest for identity and grounding amid uncertainty.

Reclaiming Religious Symbols

As overt displays of Christianity sometimes evoke negative associations with the religious right, designers like Chavarria are using their platforms to reclaim these symbols. During his Paris show, he featured a speech from Bishop Mariann Budde, emphasizing inclusivity and compassion, starkly contrasting political rhetoric. Phillips calls this choice a reclamation, advocating for moral and political clarity through fashion.

Voicing Authentic Faith

Lucy Collins, an assistant professor at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, echoes the sentiment that many individuals feel their spiritual beliefs have been misrepresented. She suggests that non-partisan people of faith are increasingly motivated to express their beliefs to counteract prevailing narratives. This desire for authenticity in representation is reshaping how religion and fashion interact.